Art market Magazine September 2015

 
RESULTS 
HD 
B €27,050 Jean Patou, 1927.
RESULTS
HD
B €27,050 Jean Patou, 1927. "Black And White" ivory silk crepe evening gown embellished with inlaid black braid embroidered with glass beads and rhinestones in a geometrical
pattern. White label with dark purple graphics: Jean Patou 7, Rue St Florentin Paris Cannes Monte Carlo Biarritz. Paris, Drouot, 22 May 2015, Pierre Bergé & Associés. Cabinet PB Fashion. C €108,010 Jean Patou, 1934 autumn/winter, winter sports outfit in black woollen waterproof gabardine. Paris, Drouot, 22 May 2015, Pierre Bergé & Associés. Cabinet PB Fashion. A €9,660 Jean Patou, c. 1930. Dress consisting of panels worked on the cross in silk chiffon with a stylised floral print decoration in green, pink and grey on an ecru background; bodice with a cross-over brassière effect at the front and slightly pointed neckline at the back, waist emphasised with a wide belt in apple green silk velvet with a bow at the back. Matching bolero with raglan sleeves at the front with smock effect from the interior of the elbow, satin lining. White label with dark purple graphics: Jean Patou 7. Rue St Florentin Paris Cannes Monte Carlo Biarritz. Bolduc d'atelier: 64999. Paris, Drouot, 22 May 2015, Pierre Bergé & Associés. Cabinet PB Fashion.

B

A

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Jean Patou Collection
In totalling €1,403,382, the Jean Patou sale was a celebration of the collector, of course, but even more of the designer, whose clothes and fragrances alike intoxicated
the bidding. In terms of couture, it was obvious that the avant-garde was determined more by new customs arising from modern life than everyday outfits. At the Paul and Denise Poiret sale on 10 and 11 May 2005 at Piasa, a 1914 car coat fetched the highest bid: €131,650. In this dispersion, two sports outfits also created a sensation: the one in the picture shot up to €108,010 – the same price as a pale pink and pearl grey wool knit golfing outfit of c. 1930, consisting of a pleated skirt and twinset made up of a sleeveless polo shirt and cardigan. The estimates had been no higher than €3,000 and €1,200 respectively. Both outfits belonged to Madeleine Barbas, Jean Patou's sister. Her husband, Raymond Barbas, was a former tennis champion who had collaborated with the couturier since the creation of his company in the early 1910s. Barbas introduced Patou to the sports world, and in 1921, he dressed Suzanne Lenglen in a way that was both practical and innovative. Four years later, the couture company created its "Sports Corner". With classic outfits, €27,500 went to a "Black and White" evening dress in ivory silk crepe, trimmed with black braid embroidered with glass beads and rhinestones. A 1935 spring/summer evening gown with a less Charleston-style cut sold for €21,895. This long dress in midnight blue figured silk crêpe, decorated in front with two percale camellias, has a matching hooded cape in cotton tulle and silk velvet panne. In 1923, Patou created the fragrance division of his company with Barbas. Designed by Louis Sue, a perfume bar of 1935 in amboyna burr, holding four large and seven smaller bottles, fetched €12,880. Sylvain Alliod

C

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Art Market Magazine September 2015
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